With all the vibes of Central America, these two provinces in Eastern Mexico are just as full of waterfalls, beaches, and street-side tortillas. While there remains a lot left to explore, my brief trips to these regions revealed no shortage of unique DIY activities, perfect for the independent backpacker.

 

Chiapas

San Cristóbal de Las Casas

SC is the provincial backpacker hub and jumping point for lovely waterfalls and highland villages.

The town was named not for the colorful paint slathered on the buildings, which is a common aesthetic throughout Latin America, but for Bartolomé de Las Casas. Bartolomé was a Spanish priest and historian who pushed forward social reform and ending the oppression of the indigenous Chiapans.

Points of interest within walking distance include the Mayan Medicine Museum and the markets. The souvenir market was good, the beet-orange-carrot from the juice carts was better, but the vibrant, cramped food market has my heart. With a sudden disappearance of foreigners, pick the friendliest face from behind one of the taco carts and enjoy a fresh plate of UNESCO-recognized cuisine while staying well under budget!

There’s many cheap, laid-back, non-commercial lodging options in SC. But if you like party hostels, try Puerta Vieja Hostel. It’s got more than just mojito nights and pizza dinners, with activities like in-house yoga and a wholesome breakfast menu. And if it’s drag night you’d better head over to Casa La Frida.

Chamula Chicken Sacrificing

My wackiest Mexican experience took place in the cathedral of San Juan Chamula, located a short colectivo ride away from SC. Throughout the day, families of Mayan descent are queued up, each waiting their turn to light about 50 wax candles while murmuring sacrificial prayers.

I stared speechless as they would sip liquor (Coca Cola for the kids for that component of capitalism), remove a live chicken from a plastic bag, wave it over everyone in the family as it absorbs all bad fortune, gingerly snap its neck, and light and pray through the melting time of another 50 candles.

Different colored candles serve different healing and spiritual purposes, leaving a linear puddle of rainbow goo on the floor. This is quickly swept away for the next Tzotzil family.

$1.25 for foreigners to enter and respectfully observe.

To wind down and process what you just actually witnessed, head up the hill for a pleasant view over the cementary. Here kangaroo hoodies sell for $5, the best price I’ve heard between Chile and Mexico. I purchased one without thinking twice.

 

 

 

Zipline Over Waterfalls

The cheapest zip of my life set me back $8 and sent me over an extensive cascade of freshwater pools feeding into one another. On sunny days, they turn a brilliant turquoise.

Take a minibus from the main terminal to Comitan for $3, and transfer to Chiflon for $1.50. Walk to the entrance ($1.60 per person), and follow the trail that winds by five waterfalls with dreamy names. After Suspiro, Ala de Angel, Arcoiris, and Quinceanera, prepare to get thoroughly showered by Velo de Novia at the top before zip-lining your way back.

For more details, refer to this recent step-by-step guide from Two Wandering Soles.

 

 

Yucatán

Akumal Sea Turtles

From Tulum or Playa del Carmen, waving down a colectivo headed towards Akumal gets you to the free beach in less than an hour. Rather than book a tour to snorkel with the turtles, have some faith and patience instead.

Rent or borrow snorkel gear beforehand, strap on your mask, and swim after the magnificent creatures who ventured away from the tour zones. They can be found by joining the small ring of snorkelers who, if you can imagine, look like they are following something.

Oh, and margs go for $5 a glass, so do BYOB.

 

 

Tulum

Enjoy yoga, smoothies, and laid-back night life. The photogenic Tulum ruins are spread out right on the beach-y cliffs. Bring sunscreen, water, and a hat.

Cobá

In 2015 my dad went ham and put back-to-back-to-back archeological sites on the itinerary. But biking through the ancient city ruins and ascending the towering Ixmoja pyramid feels like a wonderful experience now, even if at the time I was overheating and still recovering from our packed Cuba trip.

Chichen Itza

Okay, okay, we know how it’s a new Wonder of the World and all so I can’t leave it out. But since everyone goes for the exceedingly symmetric Kukulcan pyramid and crew, I wanted to describe the other spots first.

Cenotes

We went to the very popular Ik-Kil on our way to Chichen Itza, and later Gran Cenote, but the Yucatán is dotted (quite literally) with these refreshing swimming holes. Choose the lesser known cenotes and be cautious with your timing. They become quickly crowded and can’t promise as much elbow room as a beach.

 

For more Yucatan expertise, look no further than the Expert Vagabond.

More small adventures from Vivian’s university days documented in my Central America posts.