For backpackers, a desert means sandboarding, and sandboarding means obnoxious tour companies that try to turn it into a party with tank tops and pop music. Las Dunas de Concón is a precious exception nobody knows about. Loved it. It’s cheap, the slopes are on the beach, and it’s cheap.       Getting There From… Read More


Francisco. Born and raised in Santiago, in the land of hot dogs and empanadas and mountains of mayo, he was everything I don’t associate Chileans with—very tall and slim, eat’s so healthy, and cooks with a wok. And coconut milk. And curry paste. He puts on American blues while carrying out said cooking. Makes juice from fresh apples with… Read More


The entire plane was buzzing with curiosity as we landed, craning our necks to look out the windows. Every morning I woke to one screaming rooster, followed by all the other roosters across the island. The only reasonably priced food was bananas. My departing flight was full of friends I’d made.     I’ve had… Read More


I love a city that can stand out from the rest. Instead of the classic central plaza with a cathedral, Valpo was 42 hills of never-ending colors, chaos, and crap (on the streets from the copious amounts of stray dogs). Once a crucial shipping port, this UNESCO site has been largely ignored government funds since the construction of… Read More


The Elqui Valley is strange to me. The mountains are so barren and deforested, like mounds of stone and dirt. Below is tons and tons of fruit trees like figs, and of course endless vineyards. Fields of yellows and reds greet the cars on the highway and visitors often stop to watch the dam, which… Read More


The Atacama desert is another world. Stark valleys and high-altitude geological wonders that are nothing short of mesmerizing. Night skies clear enough to see other galaxies with the naked eye. The popular town of San Pedro is isolated and overgrown with tourism, yet it remains the optimal base for excursions, especially when connecting to Bolivia by booking… Read More


  Day 8 Fresh of the bus from Cotahuasi, I bought a ticket for Tacna, the southernmost city of Peru, which never showed up. I looked through all the bus ramps, went back to the office where the staff whipped out my refund out of no where and shoved it in my hands, and switched… Read More


Over twice as deep as our Grand Canyon, this was a treasure. In between peculiar rock formations, bull fights, cacti forests, thermal baths, and deadly waterfalls with unrestricted access and layers of rainbows, I was able to see much deeper into the Peruvian culture through the countless heartfelt interactions with the villagers of Cotahuasi Canyon.… Read More


Arequipa is just pretty. In this lovely city of Southern Peru with the distant icy peaks of Chachani Mountain and Misti Volcano constantly watching, I found the best ceviche and welcoming backpackers. Most use this place as a launching point to visit world-class canyons.     Getting there: connections through Arequipa are easy. The bus… Read More


  This summer I’ll be in the winter, immersing myself in the world of South America. I craved the cultural isolation of solo backpacking, and the deeper understanding of different cultures only found from longer stays abroad. I wanted to test my capability to be one of those backpackers, who don’t have plans, except to travel… Read More