This beachside Karnatakan town offers a delectable contrast of South Indian and international fare at scrumptiously low prices.

 

 

Chasing Calories: Gokarna

 

Best of…

Banana buns—Shri Gajanan Cold Drinks. Essential Karnatakan breakfast originating from the state’s Udupi region. Plushy, thick, dense, crispy, golden. I could go on and on about Mohan and Shridar’s buns, which I did in My Favorite Indian Breakfast Is Banana Buns, Hun. If you eat one thing in Karnataka, eat this and eat it here. 30 rupees (r) for one plate.

 

 

Idli— Redkar Rooms. Steamed rice cakes are the healthiest of South Indian breakfast fare. Served with spicy sambar and coconut chutney, find it all homemade and fresh at this front porch eatery. Only available in the mornings, get there by 9:30am. 25r for a plate of four small idlis.

Neer dosa—Redkar Rooms. Neer means “water” in local tongue. This type of dosa is a rice-based breakfast pancake resembling a crepe, native to the region. Served with vegetables and sambar or chutney, 30r for three.

 

 

Masala dosa—Datta Prasad Tiffin Canteen. A minimalist plate of a thin dosa spiced with peanut powder and impregnated with big potato-onion gravy, 30r.

Upma—Pai Hotel. Savory semolina porridge at this joint comes gooey, greasy, and with a variety of dal and veggies. This South Indian breakfast tiffin is a favorite among girls. Can be too oily on some days. Served hot with a side of coconut chutney, 25r.

 

 

Fish thali—“Chicken Fish Thali” on Google Maps. This nameless hidden joint sits across from Hotel Gokarna International and serves a lip-smacking plate of fish, vegetables, and rice for 80r. Includes refills on dal, rice, veggies.

 

 

Veg thali—Datta Prasad Tiffin Canteen. Homemade and colorful. Walk out feeling balanced and nourished on their plant-based meals. Sambar, dal, two vegetable serves, the spiciest salad in town, tart pickles, rice, and two chapatis for 80r. Thali with half rice and one chapati 50r.

Quiche—Chez Christophe. I can attest that pre-pandemic, the vegetable pie was beautiful. It came with a backdrop of soft sand and blue waves. Coziest seating and playful interior. Opening hours were inconsistent and staff had poor service my second time in Gokarna. Ask the regulars how things are going–and tasting–before swinging by. ~250r.

Cashew curry—Lagoon Cafe. Homemade by the ladies of the family at lightning speed, the menu calls this golden glory “cashew masala.” You’ll hear the grinder and smell the ingredients before this mouthwatering dish is brought to your table. The flavors are exquisite and they don’t hold back on the nuts. A dish that leaves you licking the plate till it squeaks, 110r.

 

 

Falafel—Lagoon Cafe. Ubiquitous on international menus across India, its appearance in Gokarna goes without saying. Usually a hit or miss, Lagoon sets itself apart. The falafels are actually balls, puffy and crispy. The hummus, salad, fries, and rotis are just as tastefully crafted. The kind of start-and-can’t-stop affair. Falafel plate 170r, falafel and hummus only 100r.

Prasad—Amrutanna Prasada Bhojana. Just by the main beach access is a hall serving prasad meals twice a day. Sit cross-legged on the floor as charity food gets slopped on your plate by shirtless temple men, in the following order: rice and sambar, sweet rice, rice and buttermilk, and optional extra sambar. While mainly for families in need and devotees visiting the Mahabaleshwar temple, I went once a month. The communal feel and eating humbly with my hand is one of my favorite Gokarna experiences. 12:30-1:30pm and 7:30-8:30pm, free, leave a donation if you wish.

Lemon soda—Kushal Cafe. In the middle of Main Beach, there’s nothing like an icy glass bottle of fizzing soda water poured over some fresh-squeezed lemon juice. With or without sugar, mix it yourself and enjoy the quiet afternoon, or a stunning ocean sunset, on this sandy strip away from the crowds. Save our oceans and bring your own straw. 25r.

Gobi Manchurian—Dubbansasi Village. Indo-Chinese is not my thing and I never went on the hunt for GM, but hidden joints throughout this fishing village whip up this saucy snack on the reg. Taste test, ask locals, figure out your favorite, 30r.

Coconuts—Annapooreshwari General Store. Consistent eating and drinking coconuts of quality. You can request a “coconut malai” if you want to drink, and then scrape thin and tender coconut flesh into your greedy jaws. Bring your own straw and haggle for 30r each.

 

 

Favorite Spots

Djanardan Dhaba—Breakfast hangout rituals, wall art, bustling with action every morning. The owner of this shop-diner dashes around fresh orders and chai.

Idlis are large, grainy, and incredible (get there by 10:30). Banana buns fill the plate like pancakes, always hot and with a delicious curry. They also serve puri and homemade yogurt.

Chai and coffee (real beans!) are big portions, sugar on the side, small sizes also available. The shop also stocks the best mini bananas, sweet and butter-soft. Inquire for local papayas, green on the outside and pale orange on the inside. Don’t be shy to try out the dhaba across the street too.

Kushal Cafe—Ravi pours his heart into his beach shack. This place is laid back, never overly crowded, and humble like the owner. The floor is the beach itself. Eat to the ocean waves and sunset.

I always ordered a lemon soda before studying the extensive and low-cost menu. I recommend the Russian pancakes (my favorite is pumpkin syrniki) that they are known for, as well as the malai kofta and Greek salad (half-size available). International fare is inaccurate as in most cases, yet at Kushal it’s a great effort for being smack in the middle of a South Indian beach, with yummy results. Accommodation available.

 

 

Lagoon Cafe—A family of four, some dogs, a cat, and the latest: a chick rescued from the claws of a predatory bird (shout out to my lil’ Cashew Nut <333).

Sit upstairs and watch fields of sweet potatoes spread beneath you. Look out towards the ocean. Wait for the sunset, they’ll light mossie incense.

There’s so many mouthwatering goodies cooked up by a team of women that one can’t go wrong with any selection. The best are the Indian dishes. I cannot recommend enough the cashew masala and falafel as mentioned above, as well as their avocado shake. The moka pot coffee is lovely and comes with a side of milk, which can be replaced with homemade coconut milk upon request.

Other brilliant dishes include eggplant dip toast (think baba ganoush vibes), chana masala, and plain spinach curry. Naan and rotis are a level up. I never got to try their seafood creations but it seems to be a house specialty. People like their Thai curries, but for me they taste like a general curry. Wifi, cushy chairs, power plugs, surrounded by green, high-quality dining at super fair prices. Sit all day and enjoy.

 

Other Notes

For another beachside shack with no crowd and low prices (veg thali 80r), try Shree Ganga Cafe.

Do not try Shiva-Shanti’s lasagna, even on the day they promote it with a meager discount. The dish is less than mediocre, like anywhere else but at a higher price.