December 24, 2019 | Leave a comment Little-known Qinghai teems with ethnic diversity and high altitude landscape. Landlocked into the Northwest of China, this province is a stark contrast to the developed Eastern half of the country. Tibetans and Huis, the predominant ethnic minorities inhabiting Qinghai, practice their religions and culinary skills alongside one another. To brush up against their lifestyles is both a delight and a privilege for any curious-minded traveler. Emerald Salt Lake, Qinghai, China. Backpack Qinghai On A Budget Qinghai is often visited in combination with the Gansu province amongst Chinese travelers, yet the near nonexistence of online English travel guidance makes the enormous province ideal for those who enjoy visiting places far removed from typical backpacking routes. Chaka Salt Lake, Qinghai, China. Destinations Ta’er Monastery 塔尔寺（Tā’ěr sì） Also known as Kumbum Monastery, this most recognized Tibetan landmark of Qinghai sits just 25 kilometers outside of the provincial capital city, Xining. Nearly 450 years old, the Ta’er Monastery is a maze of shrines, temples, and residential housing of student lamas, or monks, belonging to the Yellow Hat Sect of Tibetan Buddhism. One can find prostrating civilians (a daily practice of worship), whirling prayer wheels, and chanting monks attending meditation class. Typical fashion statements include outer robes worn halfway with the sleeves tied in the back of the waist, lengthy pigtails tied together at the tailbone, and earlobes drooping from the weight of chunky heirloom jewels. High-volume tourism has led to the growth of souvenir and snack stalls surrounding the temple. For transportation tips, opening hours, and admission pricing, see Travel China Guide’s Ta’er Monastery page. MoreLess Qinghai Lake 青海湖（Qīnghǎi hú） China’s largest lake is a 4,500 km2 saltwater pool of therapeutic blue color. July brings the bloom of the rapeseed fields around the lake, adding pods of bright yellow to the scenery. Backpackers flock here to rent a bike and complete a four-day cycling tour circumnavigating the lake shores. Bird Island is a short boat ride from the western shore and offers a chance to see a plethora of migratory birds during breeding season. However, boat and entrance fees quickly add up, and I was told it was closed to the public when I passed by in 2019. Climate change and the melting of ice from the Tibetan plateau has led to the swelling of the lake to a record-breaking size each year. This map neatly illustrates different towns (often tourism villages, hostels included) and points of interest around the lake. I was advised to check out “151” which was described to be a backpacker hub and scenic area. MoreLess Emerald Salt Lake. Emerald Salt Lake 翡翠湖（Fěicuì hú） Despite the fixation and ease-of-access of Chaka (see below), Qinghai is actually a province bejeweled with salt lakes. In the far northwest of the province, near the border to the Xinjiang province, exists a secret artificial salt lake of mystifying colors that change throughout the day due to the chemical reactions from industrial salt-mining. This spot can be accessed by hitchhike, bicycle, or taxi from the run-down town of 花土沟 (Huātǔ Gōu). Right off the interstate G315, this town is linked by bus to Dunhuang, Gansu, and larger cities throughout Qinghai. Foreigners should be wary that hotels in tiny towns that are registered to host non-Chinese guests tend to be much pricier than average lodging. This salt lake should not be confused with Dachaidan Emerald Lake, a more known lake of similar scenery in Qinghai. MoreLess Chaka Salt Lake 茶卡盐湖（Chákǎ yán hú） The province’s most (and only) well-known salt flat was traditionally an exploited resource for salt miners that popped onto the tourism radar in recent years. The result for Chaka (or Caka) is the installment of a scenic area with enough tacky facilities and crowds to equate to a theme park. On a clear day reflections in the salt flat, and the liquid lake itself, are picture-perfect. On overcast days it’s not worth the effort. This lake is often visited in combination with Qinghai Lake. MoreLess Chaka Salt Lake. Activities Nomadic Tent ExperienceThe rolling grasslands of Qinghai are dotted with Tibetan and Mongolian nomadic tents. These cozy establishments are set up in the summer season to host tourists for a meaty meal, tea time, or some horseback riding. Tour agencies and locals can connect travelers with the often remote locations and transport. Horse Racing FestivalsModern Tibetan horse racing is a series of lively events in the summertime. Mass congregations pop up throughout Western China (I encountered festivals at Qinghai Lake and Gansu province’s town of Maqu), with one of the most popular being Qinghai’s Yushu Horse Racing Festival, an eight-day bash starting on July 25th of each year. TrekkingLonely Planet was full of hiking ideas, so read up and consult hostels and other travelers on trails, safety, and permits. I unfortunately have no personal experience or details, Train to Lhasa Qinghai’s train pilgrimage to the roof of the world is the receiver of countless accolades and promises tear-jerkingly beautiful views. While the trains depart from Xining, a popular boarding point is the station in the city of Golmud. Once in Tibet, the route includes the highest railway station in the world at the Tanggula Pass. The catch? Accessing the holy capital or anywhere else in Tibet, and boarding any Lhasa-bound train requires foreigners to have an official travel permit for Tibet, attainable only by booking a costly tour in advance. Tip: For specifics on destinations and activities, get to an international hostel in Xining, and meet other travelers for itinerary ideas and accurate advice. Nomadic tent settlement. Transportation To get to Qinghai, I recommend taking a train to the provincial capital of Xining. The Xining bus station links the capital rest of the province. Cycling and hitchhiking are cheaper options, while hiring private taxis and drivers is more convenient. Hostel staff members are your best resource for pricing, contacts, and timetables. Accommodation International hostels (starting at $5 for a dorm bed) and camping are great options. Showing up to one hostel usually results in suggestions for lodging at other great hostels, and offers an opportunity to befriend other guests and share private transportation toward adventures. For reviews and reservations, see agoda.com and sort by “lowest price first.” Emerald Salt Lake. Food Yogurt, 酸奶 (suān nǎi)—Look in Tibetan shops for traditional, no-sugar versions sold in ceramic bowls or plastic containers. The yogurt should have a thin surface layer of creamy, yellow fat. Beef ramen noodles, 牛肉拉面 (níu ròu lā miàn)—Huis undeniably hand-pull and bubble this dish into the world’s best beef noodles. An all-time favorite and more often associated with the Gansu province, I scored me a steamy bowl by the Xining train station that was nothing short of exquisite. Lamb kebabs, 羊肉串 (yáng ròu chuàn)—Ubiquitous throughout China (and just look at that third character which means “kebab,” literally two meat hunks on a skewer and visual enough to get me hungry at the sight of it), lamb out west just tastes better. Some of the juiciest kebabs of my life were prepared for my friends and I by Qinghai children. Noodle squares, 面片 (miàn piàn)—Wheat is the staple in cold regions of China, and for some reason Qinghai pasta is commonly hand-cut into little squares. It comes stir-fried and saucy, floating in beef broth, and with toppings. Butter tea, 酥油茶 (sū yóu chá)—Oily, salty drink of Tibet. Steamed buns and breads—Served with tea and meals; often stained yellow with cumin. Blood intestines, 血肠 (xiě cháng)—When visiting a nomadic tent, being served an intestinal tube stuffed with meat and liquid blood is an honor. Few step up to the challenge of stomaching it. Take care not to squirt on oneself or on others. Blood intestines. Wallet-friendly Tips If taking public transportation and dining locally, Qinghai can be comfortably explored on $15-20 a day. A student ID always helps save up to half of the admission fees to tourist sites, commonly referred to as “scenic areas.” Within paid-for scenic areas, walk when possible to save on the additional costs of short-distance trolley and tram rides. Inquire about camping possibilities. Avoid tours and “homestay tours.” Haggle prices and compare between vendors before buying anything at souvenir stalls.