When people start saying they don’t have time for somewhere on the map, roll your eyes and head in that direction. Parbs and I wrapped our trip in the San Bernardo Islands and it quickly became our favorite destination—we couldn’t get enough of how isolated we felt. Here, we shared our best meals and got to see the culture of the Colombian Caribbean in its truest form.

 

 

Having looked forward to floating towns and hostels for months, I was delighted when I found a way to explore everything within my time constraints and tight budget. With Parbs having traveled Southeast Asia and myself being a native Floridian, it takes a lot for water to impress us. We were astonished. Both of us confirmed it was the most stunning array of colors we had ever seen.

 

 

Getting There & Away

From the Cartagena terminal, we took a bus to San Onofre, 2 hours, $8.30. To reach Rincón del Mar, options include a $3.60 motor taxi or $10 taxi ($5 each for Parbs and I), 1 hour.

The following morning we booked a self-paced tour of the islands that would end with dropping me off at Casa en el Agua for $17. This is far cheaper and more fluid than booking in Cartagena or through Casa. Just going to Casa from Rincón, or just the tour would each be the same price, so I figured why not do it all together?

To return to Cartagena, I took the noon Tranq It Easy boat, booked through Casa, 2 hours, $33. The marina we were dropped off at was walking distance from both Centro Histórico and Getesemaní.

 

 

Accommodation

Mamallena was the perfect place in Rincón. For $8, my own double bed in the dorm with fan overlooked the ocean and I slept and woke to the sound of breaking waves. Good wifi, good kitchen, countless hammocks. It had it’s own beach, volleyball net, and kayaks, all free for guests to use. Another hostel for backpackers was Chill Octopus.

Never had I ever paid $25 to sleep in a hammock… until I stayed at Casa en el Agua. This floating eco-hostel was exceedingly popular and I had to reserve it a month in advance, but other backpackers squeezed their way in via Facebook messenger asking for cancellation spots. For being another hostel turned bucket list item, it had a decent vibe. Food was a little pricey so I stuck to trail mix, and there was no wifi or running water, which meant water was delivered once a day and we washed with buckets and ladles. Numerous online reviews for the dorm beds complained of bed bugs, but I took the risk and was thankful I didn’t meet anyone from the dorms or the hammocks who experienced any. My favorite part was waking up and jumping off the second floor into sea and then swimming with schools of fish. One night was sufficient for me.

I also met a badass woman who hammock-ed with local fishermen for five nights on their property in Isla Mucura. Why did I have to have school on Monday?

 

 

See and Do

Rincón del Mar

Beach bumming and best seafood.

Day 9

The window views were changing. A man stood on the side of the road holding a bunch of dead turtles strung together on a rope, seemingly trying to sell them. The sun was here to stay, not switching off for overcast skies and drizzles as the other regions did. I saw farmers working in the marshes and herons watching for prey.

Delicious buñuelos de maiz happened. Again, people were helpful in telling us what all were the bus snacks.

Rincón del Mar. Corner of the Sea. I gasped when I saw the water.

 

 

Paradise. Swimming-Parbs is a different person. And finally we ordered pescado sudado, literally “sweaty fish” but really steamed, a welcome alternative as everything was fried by default. Restaurante Mar Blanco won best meal of my trip, $5. With the help of a hungry puppy, we cleaned our plate while watching the Caribbean sunset.

 

 

Isla Tintipan, Islote, & Isla Mucura

Swimming and exploring the most densely populated island on earth.

Day 10

“Una regala con gusto mi amor.”

My tinto from the one store in town was free. Colombians love their sugary, shot-sized, low-quality coffee. I hurried with our new groceries to our waiting motorboat.

Soon the South American continent disappeared from sight. I couldn’t hold back my screams. Ask Parbs.

Tintipan had great swimming waters but was mainly a beach lined with resorts. There seemed to be little development within. When other gringos started arriving, it was our cue to head out.

 

 

The next island started as a small central plaza and expanded into a partially artificial fishing town now known as Santa Cruz de Islote.

It was a step back in time. People yelled and laughed around crowded tables, or ate lunch on their porch. Teens in the alleys wore smirks of mischief on their faces, contrasting the fact that they were still dressed for school. A morbidly obese security guard sat in his plastic chair, watching the children in the schoolyard howl like maniacs. We totally didn’t belong.

 

 

I’m still unsure of Islote’s population. At the time everyone seemed to agree on 400, but then online sources say closer to 1,200 when the children come back from mainland schools. Around 90 houses have been built on this 150-year-old island. To play football or even bury their dead the locals have to use neighboring islands. This speck of earth was home to many staff members on resorts of neighboring islands. When I asked them why everyone lives on the smallest, they shrugged and replied it’s the one with the town.

Mucura had the most colorful surroundings. We swam and had some more seafood.

Saying goodbye to Parbs was by far the saddest moment of my trip. The other backpackers could see it all over my face, which was really messed up at the time because I woke up with a giant mosquito bite on my eyelid that morning.

 

 

Casa en el Agua

Floating hostel and aquatic life.

Day 11

I was not tanning topless floating on a paddle board above liquid turquoise as a French girl who was also topless fed me caramel ice cream by mid-morning.

Okay fine.

 

 

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