November, Nepal, Nepali November of my dreams. The month starts with clocking into Namche Bazaar and ends with coming down from the Gosaikunda track. In between, the heartiest autumn dosage of Mount Everest views.

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I see my first high altitude psychedelic chickens (see ‘bird of the month’ below) and still haven’t gotten over it.

So much to say. So much survived. It took only one blistering sunburn, one snapped ankle, and one course each of antibiotics and anti-parasites to get me through.

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The cold of my life. Below zero in the hotel room. Water bottle freezing as you walk in the daylight.

Ascending to over 5,300m on six separate occasions.

Weaker with every passing day. Each step forward knocking the daylights out of me.

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Was it worth it?

Of course. Of course.

Let me show you.

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namche bazaar → kongma la

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ebc → cho la

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gokyo → renjo la

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reprieve in kathmandu

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gosaikunda dump

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obsessions:

jam drops
baby yaks
women named mingma yangdi sherpa
veg egg thukpa
-20°C down sleeping bags
smartwool
head & shoulders
croissants
living in bakeries
pringles
trail magic
himalayan monals
blood pheasants
tibetan snowcocks
ornidazole
western tandoori & naan house

 

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Bird of the month: Himalayan Monal

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Psychedelic chicken with the funniest little boingy on its head, better known as the national bird of Nepal.

Present in India as well, the cheeky little bastard evades me for three consecutive Himalayan autumns. On the final day of crossing the 3,500-meter-ish altitude above Namche Bazaar (monal magic zone) in the Khumbu region where they oh-so plentiful, an unmistakable flash of purple, green, and blue passes above.

I totally lose my wits and have not been the same since.

Soon after, my hiking buddy and I spot a few more, including one silhouette that stares at us, drops something out of its mouth towards us, and proceeds to fly directly overhead letting out a series of squeals.

Then we come face-to-face with a flock of blood pheasants.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Current books:
Vagina by Naomi Wolf
House of Snow introduced by Ed Douglas

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Previous Monthly Mood: It’s Happening

Explore my full archive of Nepal and Monthly Moods.

Learn more about this round-the-world solo trip.

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