When The Vegan Way pressed a farewell slice of carrot cake into my hands and bid me a safe journey to Sri Lanka, I said I’d be back in October. What do you know, I awaken once again on the shores of paradisiacal Phewa. The lake winks at me that yes, it’s autumn.

Yes, I’m safe.

Yes, it’s okay to be bitten by mozzies in the midst of a serious dengue outbreak.

Yes, it’s my favorite month.

Yes, Nina is on her way to meet me.

Yes, it’s happening.

It’s all

happening.

October in Nepal.

our menu is extremely limited at this hour. we only have whiskey, vodka, beer, and wine.
—plaza premium lounge, indira ghandi international airport, 6am

it’s happening.
—nina

Monthly Mood: It’s Happening

Day 1722

pokhara, nepal

My body feels old. Like what I imagine an average 46-year-old to feel like even though every body is one of a kind and there is no such generalization of feeling 46.

Solukhumbu, Nepal.

I don’t know if it’s because yesterday (October 24th) I descended from an elevation of 3,200 to 1,700 meters and can’t feel my butt, or if it’s getting bashed and bruised against the rods of an ill-fitted jeep bed for a few hours as we cut through waterfalls and made drops that I’d previously believed to be only a feature of whitewater rafting.

Mardi Himal trek, Nepal.

There are other bodily complaints. My face feels papery since leaving Sri Lankan humidity and has been blooming with adult acne across my cheeks for nearly a year.

Three Passes trek, Nepal.

Of course it all traces back to my gut, which feels bloated, and my microflora, which feels weakened by 54 consecutive months of nomadism. At least I can eat now, unlike a year ago in the Indian Himalayas.

Yet every dal bhat, the key to a balanced diet and keeping budget on the Nepali trails, seems to punish me.

In short, I can sense what is truly happening. I figure it will take a generous helping of time to heal, or mature, or whatever you want to call the process of genuinely respecting my body and calming my mental afflictions.

Sure, I can be 26 and feel 46.

I can also be 46 and feel 26.

Kathmandu, Nepal.

I am an October devotee. I love the shit out of these 31 days. The mood is cozy, yummy—internal warmth against external crisp.

The color palette, soft jumpers, and spiced foods have my soul sighing in utter pleasure. Pleasure in the sense of an unbearable lightness of being.

obsessions:

hemp seed butter
pramisha naan house
crisp morning shirtless lakeside runs
honey herb ricola
roadhouse pizza margherita
roadhouse spaghetti carbonara
strong coffee
vegan way pink panda juice
elaborate oatmeal
crispy pomegranate
making masala chai
pumpkin khichdi
rajma
hawkins contura black 1.5l
my v gf stovetop cornbread
bald bliss balls
hemp beauty bars
tibetan rosemary incense
chamomile infusions
tibetan palo santo incense
(deep-fried) millet bread
tihar
nepali festive feist
chewy mutton
apple strudel