Arriving at the thundering waters of Iguazu was what flashed through my mind the moment I made a final decision to purchase my GoPro. Triple the height of Niagra and featured in films like Captain America, Iguazu had visible rainbows from every angle during the day. I just about lost my mind. I was traveling with Linda, who pointed out that studies have been done on endorphins and waterfalls, and it’s unexplainable how the sight and sounds simply bring everyone happiness—we were certainly high off our doses of it.

 

 

Getting There

Expensive busses run from any major city. From Salta, it was 28 grueling hours with two bus changes and ample delays. It’s cheaper to buy all the tickets at the same time, as opposed to buying each leg when you arrive at the points of change, Corrientes and Posadas. The total was $115, busses leave in the evening around 4:30pm.

Don’t forget to pop into Brazil for at least a day! Brazilian version of Iguazu linked here.

Accomodation

We stayed in the very basic dorms of Hostel Noelia and listened to snorers all night. Cold rooms, hot showers, kitchen, lots of bread for breakfast.

Food

It’s all expensive. Everything seemed to be Argentine or Brazilian steakhouses. I spent more than I would’ve liked buying sandwiches and snacks at the only place open late, a small cafe called El Arbol Real, but it’s still better than paying for the food within the park.

For solid, affordable Mexican food in town, check out Tacopado, downhill from the bus station.

 

See and Do

Day 39

A day spent sitting in busses. Out the window were pampas and cattle. Too much dulce de leche and refined carbs. Stomach pains.

Two hours late, we got to the small tourist town at nine. Puerto Iguazu didn’t feel like Argentina, or Brazil, or anywhere except maybe Cancun, Mexico.

Two blocks and a vicious, snarling dog popping out of no where and I was the cheapest hostel around.

 

Day 40

I must’ve shoved my shirt in a bread bag because today I happened to smell like a bakery—it changes every day.

At the same bus terminal we arrived to last night, we took a $9.35 colectivo to Iguazu National Park. The park entrance was $24.

Sendero Verde is a 10-minute walk to access the trails through the falls, as well as the train to the Devil’s Throat.

Beating the crowds, we enjoyed the Lower Circuit  to ourselves.

Linda went to do a boat tour, different from the boat service that shuttles visitors to Isla San Martín. This quick trip was included in everyone’s park entrance ticket, but was not running today. Upon further inquiry, it turns out in all of 2015 it was only available on three days. The water level was supposedly “too high” for the shitty boats, clearly a BS excuse so that tour companies can have the advantage.

I boarded the trolley to Garganta del Diablo and 20 minutes later was blown away by crystalline water just dumping off over the enormous cliff.

The Upper Circuit trail was harder to enjoy as I was mushed between groups of students and tours. It would’ve been ideal to walk it prior to visiting Garganta.

Monkeys, tropical birds, and coatis are easy to spot. Signs around the park are effective in depicting the animals as vicious savages, complete with images of bloody wounds and fangs.

I recommend hiking the 7-kilometer Sendero Macuco to access a waterfall off the beaten path, which I unfortunately couldn’t do because the park staff won’t let anyone start after 3pm for fear it’ll get dark before finishing.

Instead, with the last hours of daylight, I took the return colectivo directly to Hito de Las Tres Fronteras, located back in town. This was a lovely a monument and lookout over the Parana and Iguazu Rivers at the joining point of Argentina, Paraguay, and Brazil.