The Elqui Valley is strange to me. The mountains are so barren and deforested, like mounds of stone and dirt. Below is tons and tons of fruit trees like figs, and of course endless vineyards. Fields of yellows and reds greet the cars on the highway and visitors often stop to watch the dam, which has created a lovely lake.

 

 

The best stargazing in the world is said to be found in this part of the Ruta de Las Estrellas. After hitchhiking through the photogenic towns, I can’t decide if the valley’s pride and joy is being the birthplace of Gabriela Mistral, the first Latin American poet to win the Nobel Literature Prize, or if it’s the renowned pisco liquor distilled from local grapes, so let’s go with both. Poets and alcohol usually complement each other, right?

With the recent move of the center of earth’s magnetic field to this valley from Tibet comes lots of hippies, massages, palm readings, and yoga. This influx of spirituality is often referred to as the New Age Movement.

I wouldn’t prioritize this destination, but it’s a good stop to break up the journey along the grueling length of Chile. For stars and camping, go in the appropriate season, which is not autumn.

 

 

Getting There

I came from the north, first taking an overnight bus from San Pedro de Atacama to La Serena with Turbus, $30, 16 hours. It’s easy to connect to and from Valparaiso and Santiago for around $10, 7 hours.

At the terminal in La Serena, frequent busses run to Vicuña, the region’s capital one hour away for $3 and to Pisco Elqui, the most popular town and an additional hour of travel, for $6. With no planning and research, I decided to wing it and head for the latter.

 

Accomodation

It’s normal to find dorm rooms for $20. Many base themselves in Vicuña for around $15 per night.

In warmer months, the best method is to camp at the many sites throughout the valley, including Refugio del Angel and Rio Magico.

I wanted to stay in Pisco Elqui but everything seemed full when I arrived and I was quite desperate by the time I showed up to Frutos del Sol near the intersection of Baquedano and Arturo Prat. Pamela was such a happy and beautiful person, and she told me she had lodging. It’s called Sol y Luna but has no sign whatsoever on the outside. I was alone for one night and in a full house the next. A shared four bedroom dorm was $10.50 a night and the large house has got wifi, a kitchen, and hot showers. A private double was $30. My roommates reported that they had considered a place on the main road near the park for $8-9.

 

See and Do

Pisco Elqui

Day 12

I don’t know why I didn’t go with the British couple to the nice hostel and get my life together. I guess 16 hours of bussing wasn’t enough and I extended this to 18. I met four American girls from New England exchanging with a liberal arts program in Valparaiso. They called everything cute.

I had bigger problems to worry about, like a place to stay that wasn’t a knife in my bank account. Hostal San Pedro didn’t answer they’re door, and locals told me a little distillery named El Nicho was three kilometers further, so I hitched with the nicest people who gave me their number in case I ever needed anything.

Picture a dirty hobo with two backpacks standing among rich families sipping on pisco and wine. The next tour, although only $1.50, was not for a while so I hitched back.

I found Pamela, the lady selling dried fruits and spices at Frutos del Sol, who took me in. In the evening I walked around town. A sign outside some local homes led me to a steaming hot pino empanada.

Note: Although I skipped them, there are popular pisco distilleries for touring in the center of Pisco Elqui and near Vicuña.

 

Montegrande and Cochiguaz

Day 13

On Sunday the towns seemed to be asleep even though it was past 10 in the morning.I satisfied my craving for desert with something filled with dulce de leche from a minimarket before hitching again. The car door of the lovely couple had an opened wine bottle in the cup holder.

I was dropped in Montegrande, the site at which the road forks to Pisco Elqui where I was staying, and Cochiguaz, a place so small it doesn’t qualify as a village and has no public transport connecting it.

Montegrande has some restaurants and a house of Gabriela Mistral. My idea was to rent a bike here and cycle the 20 kilometers to Cochiguaz but as it turns out Montegrande is also pretty small. The car that picked me up was another couple who fed me orange wafers. I was a little confused when we got to the Cochiguaz because there wasn’t much and they said I should stay in the car.

We got to an their almost finished cabin complex with beautiful interior designs large windows overlooking the valley. Named Las Tolas, they will start receiving guests in one month.

Back in Montegrande I handed the lady my phone on camera mode so she could try on earrings. Further along the highway at a roadside cafe they drank smoothies made with white-fleshed cactus fruit. I politely declined their offer to buy me whichever I wanted since they had done so much for me.

 

 

Vicuña

Day 13 (pm)

The couple was right about Cerro de La Virgen in Vicuña—it was quite unattractive. The free Museo de Gabriela Mistral was closed early, and checking the next day it appears the posted hours aren’t even correct since it was closed all of Monday.

To get home I combined hitching and bussing. I had roommates! With three guys from Israel and one woman from Spain, everyone had great English. It’s interesting that even though the boys were 24, they hadn’t started university, so they were technically freshmen.

The saddest part of my weekend was the clouds. Not one star in the worlds best stargazing spot.

 

 

Cavas del Valle Winery

Day 14 (am)

Before breakfast I briefly hiked up Baquedano street with yet another hyperactive canine for a decent last look at PE. At my favorite bakery, Tia Jeny’s, I got fluffy bread and those typical puny avocados with enormous pits (perhaps that’s how they naturally come).

My first hitch left me at Cavas del Valle, a small, family-owned, organic winery with free tastings, seven kilometers away from Montegrande towards Vicuña. I got to watch the workers bottle and ferment the wine in stainless steel vats and visit the cellar where the wooden barrels add further flavor.

Best wine of my life. The Gran Reserva had a delicious aftertaste. The Rosa Alba was a white dry with a delicious smell, made out of grapes that are usually used for Pisco liquor. Good with seafood, pasta, and all the yummy meals. The last two were from autumn harvests, a Syrah and a Moscatel, and therefore sweet like juice. Yeah I have no idea what I’m saying with these fancy words.

The price of a bottle ranges from $9-16.

Back in Vicuña, I was disappointed that the museum was closed again, but got two filling empanadas from the a really nice old man who was napping more than he was selling.

 

 

La Serena

Day 14 (pm)

I didn’t stay long here, just walked my butt off to see some of the points of interest. El Faro, the iconic lighthouse, and surroundings were essentially run down and deserted.

Near Plaza de Armas I got rejected by the scenic Jardín Japonés and another museum because Monday’s are just not good for being a tourist. Apparently I looked so lost that someone approached me asking if I needed help. I wound up walking through the free Gonzalez Videla museum, an ex-president from La Serena.

I returned the bus terminal with the help of some architecture students who had been sketching some sculptures found on the main avenue of the city, for their expo, which I attended for like 10 minutes.