After hiking over 40 miles in three days, we were all about the naps and gourmet breakfasts of Ollantaytambo. Stumbling into Munay Punku Bed and Breakfast was never part of the original itinerary, but we couldn’t  break away and indulged in an extra night.

Day Five

The Argentines continued on to Cusco while the rest of us were dropped in Ollantaytambo and walked to the edge of town, knocking on Mama Simona’s door at 1:00am. We were rejected and begged their next door neighbor, Munay Puknu Bed and Breakfast, to help us. The nicest, sleepy lady let us in and told us that a triple would be $45, a double $38. We took it.

Located right on the river, our room was huge and accented perfectly with Peruvian textiles. I immediately claimed the queen bed, endured an icy shower as hot water was no longer on, and jumped inside my four pillows and comforter stuffed with down feathers.

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Breakfast ended at nine so we rolled out of bed just in time.

1. The coffee wasn’t watery instant Nescafé, and was full of flavor.
2. Peruvian papaya is wonderful.
3. Peruvian granola is also wonderful.

Quentin, Will, and I joined the Germans in feasting. I sliced bananas and mixed it with the millet and puffed barley granola. We requested more bread so that we could eat more of the elderberry and gooseberry preserves.

We checked out the river in the back and said our farewells before us Americans came to the conclusion that this place was too damn heavenly to leave. And that we should hike to more Incan ruins.

A desert-feeling trail called Pinkuylluna, mid-way between Munay Punku and town center, led up to an Incan granary which I climbed all over. We could view the entire town. The ruins continue up to a pair of stone structures at the very peak, and since another blogger had written about reaching that point, we attempted the same. However, as soon as we crossed some yellow “peligro” tape, distant whistles began repeatedly blowing. We backed down and they stopped, much to my irritation. Instead we sat on top of the ledge of a chunk of ruins, passing Clif bar (white chocolate macadamia, specifically) among us until it was gone.

As I descended the hill a Peruvian lady hiking with her mother pointed out some dried coca leaves on the rocks, and told me it was a custom to offer leaves to the mountain in return for protection.

Cobblestone alleys ran along residential dwellings and a bubbling stream that was likely overgrown with E. coli. Continuing to the right along the main road, we explored an even poorer neighborhood, buying mango popsicles along the way.

As I walked past a house I saw swarms of Guinea pigs inside. We asked if we could buy one and they said yes, for 50 soles. On our way back we saw them again and bargained it down to 30 soles and were then handed a live, squirming animal. Unprepared, we realized they don’t cook them, only the restaurants in town do.

When we went searching for lunch, I decided I was too tired, turned around and bought some raw tomatoes and took a nap instead. I was so cozy and the sun was right on me, toasting me up after a hot shower.

The rest of the day was spent indoors. Ruth, our hostess, had been so helpful all day and I noticed her serving and chatting with her grandma in Quechua. The old woman sat all day in the living room, munching on fruit and drinking hot tea. She speaks no Spanish.

At night we went for one last quick stroll where we found a lady selling pollo and carne kebabs, complete with a potato on top, $.40.

I reminded the boys to look up at the stars, and  we ended the day with cheap chocolate wafers and tea in our cozy beds.

Day Six

Photo credit- @wcoburn_

Breakfast had not one, but two delightful granola options. This time, we also had avocados and tomatoes on hand to add to our circular toast.