My need for Africa drove me crazy. How can so many of us live our entire lives and not even skim the surface of such a vast piece of the world? While most visitors get in a private vehicle at the airport and beeline for safari lodges, keeping way out of the way of natives and African cities, I was determined seek out local life. Even if it had to be done alone.

Why start here?

I chose Kenya because I dreamed to see the safari wildlife and the umbrella trees. The drivers take you right up to the animals. For more environmentally conscious experiences, I recommend Tanzania or South Africa. I considered basing myself in Tanzania, drawn by the stories of Mount Kilimanjaro, but I found a fitting workaway in Kenya and before long, my plane ticket was booked.

 

 

BUDGET BREAKDOWN:

I thought I was doing my savings account a favor when I chose to explore the poorer regions of the world. I couldn’t have turned out more incorrect. Parks charge foreigners a ridiculous amount per day for admission, enough to stop you from taking more days to safari and leaves your wallet with a bitter aftertaste.

• Airfare to Nairobi- 1008
• Foreign travel vaccines, done in America- 342
• Malarone generic brand, anti-malarial drug, for 30 days- 14
• Visa, purchased at the Nairobi airport- 50
• Taxi from airport to Nairobi city- 20-30
• Game reserves and national park admission- 80 per day
• Safari tour- 30-70 per day, depending on group size
• Lodging- 5-15 per night
• ATM fees- ~5 per transaction
• Bus- 5-20 per ride
• Matatu- 1-5 per ride
• Motorbike- .5-1
• African shirts and sandals- 10 each, post intense haggling
• Lunch- 1.4 for 2 chapati, eggs, tomato, and two serves of dark greens
• Avocado- .1
• Mango- .1

All costs are given in USD. $1 is approximately 100 Kenyan shillings(kshs).

 

TRANSPORTATION: Matatus connect every corner of the country. For a couple dollars max, the crew manning these used SUVs will take you flying to your next connection, elbow room not guaranteed. I counted once—21 passengers were with me. Wooden planks are placed across the aisles to create extra seats. The experience is essential. Stops are random as people on the side of the road are always picked up, and the money collector slaps the roof to signal the vehicle is ready to get moving again. As soon as you disembark, you’ll be harassed for where you want to go next by new crew members hoping you’ll pick their transport line, but don’t be alarmed, these guys are just trying to make a living and can often locate you to where you need to be. They may ask for a few shillings in return.

To save time, you might consider spending a little more on direct shuttles, which are slightly less torn up SUVs.

Charter busses vary in price because you can buy from different companies and choose if you want AC, first class, etc. and of course price increases with distance. For example, going from Nairobi to Oyugis was 8USD with no frills and took 8 hours, but going overnight from Mombasa to Nairobi I had a friend who wanted AC and luxury seats, so tickets for the “MASH” bus cost each of us 16.5USD for the same amount of time. They even passed out cookies and cola when I was sleeping!

Workaway contacts had already arranged a taxi from the NBO airport to downtown Nairobi for 30USD.

Motorbikes (also called boda-bodas because they used to take Kenyans from border to border) and tuk-tuks (an onomatopoeia for a rickshaw, this word is used from here to Guatemala to Thailand) are the cheapest and best for short distances; be sure to first ask locals what a fair price should be.

 

WHAT TO DO:

Safari

Quality over quantity. Skip Nakuru and pick one of the big names to make the most of your hard-earned money. Unless you’re looking for a fancy rare specific species of ant or something, your wildlife experience will be similar whether you choose Maasai Mara National Reserve, where I went and is famous for the Great Migration, or Amboseli National Park, known for breath-taking views of Kilimanjaro. These two parks have the Big Five (lion, buffalo, rhino, elephant, leopard) and good wildlife density. For more details, read this post. Stay a couple days and bring your cameras, you can’t leave without this!

Flamingo-watching

If you’re still salty I said no Nakuru, you’ll find flamingos galore in Lake Bogoria. Like, millions. The flocks only visit Nakuru on some days, and even less so in recent years. A bonus? The nice thermal waters of Bogoria attract the birds almost every day because it’s a preferred breeding spot. On top of that, the admission is 25USD, saving you 55USD. Base yourself in Nakuru city and take a 2-hour matatu to this overlooked lake. Oh, and you can bring raw eggs and boil them on the spot using the spring water, only the most badass way to make a meal. Ever. See Trip Advisor for photo proof of said cooking. Over in Baringo, they say you can wrap giant snakes around you and pose for pictures. This is all quite the sore topic, learn from my mistakes.

East Coast

Distant Relatives is a quiet eco-backpackers in Kilifi. The showers are constructed from creaking bamboo, the dorms are built around and enclose the trunks of trees, and the bathroom stalls are complete with composting toilets and large windows overlooking the myriad of on-site farm animals. Get wet in the refreshing pool and take advantage of private beach access where native kids are doing backflips off of a chunk of styrofoam. Enjoy the healthy menu with its vegan-friendly options like avocado toast, my personal weakness.

Notable activities include the sunset dhow sailing, village visits, and day-tours to the Vuma Cliffs. Kilifi ocean waters are also known for the nighttime bioluminescence.

To get there, bus to the hustling city of Mombasa where Muslim culture dominates and trees offer coconuts and hiding monkeys. The flavors are different here. Situated on the Indian Ocean, curry is a common sighting while Fort Jesus and the deteriorated Old Town are worth a stroll. Catch a matatu to Kilifi, alight at the Tusky’s supermarket, then ask a motorcycle or tuk-tuk for a brief ride to “Distant Relatives, ” 1-1.5USD.

Volunteer

My project was located in the surrounding villages of Oyugis in Homa Bay County. Of course, help is needed everywhere. A great way to pick up the African way of living and even work in a homestay experience, I’ll never forget this. I befriended not only Kenyans, but also other travelers who were passionate about making a difference. Nights were spent talking with Ana in the dark as she was on the bed below me in our bunk. Volunteering allowed me to see a whole new perspective by observing and interacting with locals, but also gave me time to reflect and understand myself.

Note: Many honest, reliable projects exist in Kenya. While I have reasons to not recommend my host family, I know of great alternatives so please do not hesitate to contact me if you are interested in becoming involved in a worthy cause.

 

Other Notable Destinations:

• Mount Kenya

 

WHERE TO STAY:

• Mara Explorers, Maasai Mara
• Distant Relatives, Kilifi
• Hotel Pandoria, Nakuru
• With a host family as a volunteer

 

WHAT TO EAT (with your hands!)

• Chapati, an Indian-inspired tortilla
• Ugali, a cornmeal staple, served with protein and veggies
• Mandazi, fried dough best eaten with Kenyan tea
• Avocados and fresh fruits from the market
• Dates on the east coast
• Fish at Lake Victoria
• Homemade chicken and rice

 

SAFETY: There’s a generalized fear of “Africa” because we fear what’s different. The fact that it’s such an unpopular destination (save overpriced safari package tours) makes it unfamiliar. It’s okay, the Africans didn’t believe me when I told there America has homeless people too. It is also worth noting that Europeans who have frequented this continent tell me they are in fear of South America, creating what I find to be quite the analogy.

East Africa is safe and free of Ebola. It is no different than other parts of the third-world. I urge you to go find your own opinion. I found the different customs, cuisines, and daily habits to be fabulous.

I recommend getting your vaccines updated and buying malaria pills. Do not forget the prevalence of HIV, which in an extreme case could technically be contracted by playing with an infected child who has a cut or a nosebleed.