Antigua: Day Three

 

Sunshine and Indian Nose greeted us as we left the ecolodge on this fine election day. The lancha back to Pana was 25Q.

I waved down chicken busses until we found ourselves back in my favorite crazy market. But before we get to the cuteness of colonial and UNESCO Antigua, the first stop in Sololá had great street options for tipico breakfast. The parque central had a gorgeous government building overlooking it. A boy was ringing a bell as he sold ice cream out of a strapped box slung around his shoulder. Too bad he looked confused and terrified when I tried to ask him about it. I think the good weather heavily influenced my particular liking for Sololá (as opposed to any other Latin American town center).

 

Antigua. Right. Did I stop eating? No. When was it safe to cross the cobblestone streets without the risk of drowning? Never.

 

 

The most amazing meal was consumed at Tipico Rincon, a homey cafeteria warming it’s guests with a giant rotisserie right next to the tables. Servers prepared the daily special by assembling mini golden potatoes, tender scallion, a hunk of tender meat, and a heaping of guacamole. It came with unlimited horchata and a basket of blue corn tortillas. Something about the blue color just makes them more appealing, and even more so as they all get splatted into shape and cooked to perfection at the restaurant entrance. Each person only needs 30Q for this experience, and an extra 10 if you want a side of guac.  You know it’s a hit when so many Guatemalan families are surrounding you. The wealthier citizens seem to flock to Antigua for a nice weekend trip. Many prefer the many American-style coffee shops or international restaurants. Burger King is hidden in a canary yellow façade. McDonald’s has its own separate shop for all things ice cream. Perhaps most of the money flowing through Antigua is finding its way to the Little Caesars.

 

 

Our time was limited and after squandering too much of it haggling for what my parents would call beggar-clothing, we walked to several preserved cathedrals. To the left of Covenant La Merced is a pleasant fountain ruin that no one cared about me walking all over. Lonely Planet calls it the largest one in Latin America. Up some stairs is a better view with labeled signs of what volcanic peaks were out in the distance. Entry is 2USD, and less if you’re native.

 

 

Out front is some nice street food where you can find rellenitos, a Guat treat of sweet plantains stuffed with beans. We crossed over to the famous Santa Catalina arch. Cars are rightfully banned from this picturesque street. There were more thrift shops and opportunities for souvenir-whoring and chocolates-sampling.

 

 

I love the bags of giant, fresh fruit slabs you can pick up anywhere. from the chicken bus to the street corners. Earlier in the day it was papaya. Now sweet mango.

 

 

 

I ended my binging with soft serve in an Oreo cone at McCono’s and highly recommend the same choice for anyone else. Not vanilla, not chocolate, but swirl. Never settle for less. It’s also insanely affordable priced at 4.5Q, leaving us satisfyingly broke with half a Q between the two of us.

Israeli-themed Zoola seems to be the most popular backpacker choice but it was full. El Hostal was everything I wanted and includes breakfast for 12USD for the dorms. The desk boy was very helpful in booking an early shuttle for the airport.